Diagnosing a power window motor or window switch problem doesn’t have to be rocket science. If you understand the basic principles of how they work, and you know what particular style window regulator is in your automobile door, you can figure it out quickly.
If your glass didn’t do the famous “pop & drop” and you don’t hear cracking, grinding or funky noises coming from the inside door panel, your power window regulator may be just fine. Move onto testing the power window motor or window switch.
You don’t always need to remove the panel to determine what is wrong with your power window motor or power window switch. Many times, a fluctuation in the strength of your power to your dorm or headlights, caused by the demand of current can tell you whether or not the motor is getting any juice, better known as electricity.
Testing at night with your engine off, but ignition and headlights on will be your best option. Depress the power window switch and if you see a slight dimming of your headlights or your dome or dash lights, you are getting an electrical connection to the switch and it is sending that power to the motor. If this happens and you aren’t hearing any noise, you can be relatively sure that it’s the power window lift motor that is to blame. Sometimes you hear a click-click-click-click when the motor is failing.
If you depress the switch button and you don’t experience a dimming, it’s likely to be the power window switch or an electrical break in the electrical harness. If the power window switch button feels spongy, loose or at all different from the other window switch buttons, you likely are in need of a window switch repair or replacement.